Experience the best of Tiruvannamalai

Tiruvannamalai lies in northern Tamil Nadu at the foot of Arunachala, a rocky hill revered as a form of the god Shiva. The Arunachaleswarar Temple, one of the largest temple complexes in India, spreads across several enclosures with tall gateway towers, the eastern one rising 66 metres. It is the temple of the element of fire among the five great temples of the elements.

Pilgrims walk around the hill on full-moon nights, a circuit of about 14 kilometres. The sage Ramana Maharshi lived in Tiruvannamalai from 1896 until his death in 1950, and his ashram at the foot of the hill remains a centre of quiet retreat. Each year at the festival of Karthigai Deepam a great flame is lit on the summit. Gingee Fort lies to the east, and the Javadi hills rise to the north-west.

Vegetarian meals served on banana leaves, with idli, dosa and pongal for breakfast, are standard fare, and stalls around the temple sell sweets, flowers and garlands for offerings. The festival falls in November or December, a mild time for walking round the hill.