Experience the best of Srinagar

Srinagar spreads along the Jhelum river and around Dal Lake, a broad mountain lake where wooden houseboats lie moored in rows and shikaras, small boats with canopies, carry passengers between floating gardens and markets. The old city is a tangle of wooden mosques and shrines, among them the Jama Masjid, with its timber pillars, and the shrine of Hazratbal beside the lake. Hari Parbat, a hill fort above the city, and the Shankaracharya Temple, on a hill overlooking the lake, give wide views.

Mughal emperors laid out terraced gardens on the lake's eastern shore, among them Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh and Chashme Shahi, with chinar trees, fountains and views across the water. Further afield, the meadows of Gulmarg, with its high gondola, and Sonamarg, and the valley of Pahalgam lie in the Himalayan foothills, and Dachigam National Park, home to the hangul, a Kashmiri red deer, is close to the city.

Wazwan, a multi-course feast of lamb dishes such as rogan josh and gushtaba, minced meatballs in yoghurt, is the pride of Kashmiri cooking, and kahwa, green tea with saffron, cardamom and almonds, is served in small cups. Noon chai, a pink salted tea, and bakery breads taste of the mornings. Spring brings tulips, autumn the red leaves of the chinar trees, and winter snow.