Experience the best of Xining

Xining lies in the valley of the Huangshui River at more than 2,200 metres, where the farmland of north-west China meets the Tibetan Plateau. It was a staging post on the southern branch of the Silk Road, and Tibetan, Hui Muslim and Han communities share its streets. The large Dongguan Mosque, the Qinghai Provincial Museum with its Tibetan art and Beishan Temple, whose cave shrines and pavilions cling to the cliff above the city, are the main sights.

Ta'er Monastery, about 25 kilometres south-west, is one of the great Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, the birthplace of the reformer Tsongkhapa and known for its butter sculptures. Qinghai Lake, China's largest lake, lies a few hours' drive to the west, with birdlife on its shores and fields of yellow rapeseed flowers around it in July.

Hand-grabbed mutton, thick yoghurt served in ceramic bowls, yak meat, butter tea and hand-pulled noodles dominate the menu, along with niangpi, cold wheat noodles in a sharp sauce. At this altitude summers stay cool and sunny, while winters are long, dry and very cold.