Experience the best of Erg Chebbi

Erg Chebbi is a large field of Saharan sand dunes in the far south-east of Morocco, close to the border with Algeria, rising more than a hundred metres above the stony plain. The village of Merzouga sits at its edge, with guesthouses, tents and camel stables, and the dunes seem to change colour from pale gold to deep orange as the light moves.

Camel trips climb into the dunes for sunset or dawn, and visitors walk to the summit ridges or slide down on boards. After rare rains, the dry lake of Hassi Labied fills and flamingos and other water birds appear. Rissani, a historic market town in the Tafilalet oasis, lies a short way away, and the Gnawa musicians of Khamlia play drums and chants in their village.

Berber pizza, a bread stuffed with meat and onions and baked in sand ovens, is the dish of the area, and the oasis dates of the Tafilalet are sweet and soft. Summers are scorching, winters cool and nights cold, and the months from October to April are better for crossing the sand.