Experience the best of Edfu

Edfu lies on the west bank of the Nile between Luxor and Aswan, among sugar-cane fields and date palms. The Temple of Horus, begun in 237 BC under Ptolemy III and completed almost two centuries later, is among the best-preserved temples in Egypt. A massive pylon carved with giant figures leads into a courtyard and halls still roofed in stone, with the sanctuary of the falcon god at the back.

Horse-drawn carriages take visitors from the river landing to the temple gate. Cruise boats stop here on the way between Luxor and Aswan, and the road south leads to Kom Ombo, with its double temple of Sobek and Horus, and to the sandstone quarries of Gebel el-Silsila, where stone for many of Egypt's temples was cut.

Ful medames, fava beans stewed with oil and lemon, ta'amiya, the local falafel, and grilled pigeon stuffed with rice are the staples of the town's cafés, with sugar-cane juice pressed on the street and sweet hibiscus tea to follow. Summer heat is intense, so winter, from November to February, is the comfortable season.