Experience the best of Bonito

Bonito lies in the Serra da Bodoquena, a limestone upland in Mato Grosso do Sul in south-western Brazil, where springs feed rivers of unusual clarity. The town is small, a base for the ranches and nature reserves around it. Floating or snorkelling down the Rio da Prata and the Rio Sucuri among shoals of fish is the signature outing, and the Gruta do Lago Azul, a deep cave holding a lake of intense blue water, is the best-known single sight.

More water lies within reach: the Nascente Azul, a spring-fed pool, the Boca da Onça waterfalls, and the Abismo Anhumas, a deep cave chasm where visitors abseil down to an underground lake. Estância Mimosa opens waterfalls and natural pools on private land. Campo Grande, the state capital, is around 300 kilometres to the east by road, and the great Pantanal wetland lies to the north and west.

Pintado and pacu, freshwater fish, are usually grilled or served in stews, and sopa paraguaia, a savoury cake of maize and cheese, reflects the state's border with Paraguay. Tereré, cold maté sipped through a metal straw, is the everyday drink. The dry months, from May to September, bring cooler nights and the clearest water, while heavy summer rain can cloud the rivers.