Experience the best of La Maddalena

The La Maddalena archipelago lies in the Strait of Bonifacio, a short ferry ride from Palau on Sardinia's north-east coast. The main island holds the town of La Maddalena, a pastel harbour with a square lined with cafés, and a causeway leads to Caprera, where Giuseppe Garibaldi lived and is buried. The islands form a national park, protected for their granite shores, scrubby maquis and clear sea.

Boats visit Spargi, Santa Maria, Razzoli and Budelli, whose Spiaggia Rosa takes its colour from fragments of coral and shell and is now protected from landing. Snorkelling in the sheltered coves is a pleasure, and sailing is the main way to see the park. On the Sardinian mainland, the weathered granite of Capo d'Orso near Palau and the Costa Smeralda are within reach.

Seafood pasta with bottarga, grilled fish and octopus fill the island tables, with pecorino sardo cheese, zuppa gallurese made of bread and cheese, seadas fried pastries with honey, and Vermentino di Gallura white wine. The sea is warm from June to September, and the strong maestrale wind shapes the sailing.