Experience the best of Fujairah

The Hajar Mountains rise steeply behind the coast, and wadis such as Wadi Wurayah hide pools and waterfalls among the rocks. Fujairah Fort, a restored stone fort on a rise, stands above the old town, and Al Bidya Mosque, a small mud-brick building with four domes, is the oldest known mosque in the country.

The coast around Dibba and the rocky islet nicknamed Snoopy Island has clear water and coral reefs for snorkelling and diving, with turtles and reef sharks. Beaches here are quieter than on the west coast, framed by mountains, and the roadside market at Masafi sells pottery, carpets and fruit.

Local cooking revolves around the sea, from grilled kingfish to spiced shrimp, and dates and coffee open every welcome. The east coast feels wilder and greener than the cities across the mountains, and the season from late autumn to early spring is best for diving and hiking.