Experience the best of Cuiabá

Cuiabá grew from gold prospecting in the eighteenth century and sits on the Cuiabá River in the interior of Brazil, close to the middle of the continent. Its old quarter has churches and colonial-era houses. A monument in the city marks the spot that Cuiabá claims as the geodesic centre of South America.

The northern Pantanal begins a couple of hours' drive to the south-west, and the Transpantaneira road runs into it from Poconé. In the dry season animals gather at the remaining water: jaguars, capybaras, caimans, giant anteaters and hyacinth macaws are among the wildlife visitors hope to see. In the other direction, about an hour north-east of the city, the sandstone plateau of Chapada dos Guimarães has waterfalls and viewpoints.

River fish is the favourite, pacu above all, grilled or fried, and pintado, a large river catfish, turns up in stews. Maria Isabel, rice cooked with dried beef, is a classic of Mato Grosso kitchens. The wet season from November to March floods the lowlands, and May to September is the dry season, the better time to look for wildlife.