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Tbilisi, the capital, spills along a river gorge beneath Narikala Fortress, with balconied old houses, sulphur baths, candlelit wine bars and bold modern landmarks. Mtskheta, the ancient capital, is a short drive away, with churches that are among the most revered in the country.

To the north, the Georgian Military Highway climbs into the Greater Caucasus to Kazbegi, where the Gergeti Trinity Church stands below the snows of Mount Kazbek. Kakheti, east of the capital, is the heart of winemaking, with wine fermented in clay qvevri buried in cellars, while the medieval tower villages of Svaneti, the cave city of Vardzia and the Black Sea port of Batumi show other sides of the country.

Feasts, or supras, are led by a toastmaster, the tamada, and bring khachapuri, khinkali dumplings, walnut sauces and grilled meats to the table. The autumn grape harvest, rtveli, is the great event of the year in Kakheti, summer opens the high mountain roads, and winter brings skiing at Gudauri.