Things to do in Albania

Tirana, the capital, is a colourful city of painted buildings, the vast Skanderbeg Square, museums in Cold War bunkers and a lively café culture in the Blloku district. A cable car climbs Mount Dajti for views over the plain.

South of the capital, Berat and Gjirokastër are UNESCO-listed Ottoman towns of stone and whitewashed houses climbing the hillsides. The Albanian Riviera stretches south along the Ionian Sea with turquoise bays at Ksamil, Himarë and Dhërmi, and the ancient city of Butrint lies among lagoons near the Greek border. In the north, the Accursed Mountains offer dramatic hiking between the villages of Theth and Valbona.

Byrek pastries, grilled meats, seafood on the coast and tavë kosi of baked lamb with yoghurt are favourites, with local raki to finish. May, June and September are ideal, summer is hot and busy on the coast, and winter is mild by the sea and snowy in the mountains.