Experience the best of Vlorë

Vlorë curves around its bay behind a palm-lined promenade and a working harbour. The Muradie Mosque, a sixteenth-century building credited to the architect Sinan, stands near the centre, and the Independence Monument recalls the declaration of independence made here in November 1912. On a hill just above the city, the weathered walls of Kanina Castle look out over the bay and the lowlands behind it.

South of the city the road climbs through the black pines of Llogara National Park and drops towards the Albanian Riviera, a run of beaches and hillside villages such as Dhërmi and Himara. Across the bay to the west, the wild Karaburun peninsula and the island of Sazan form a marine park, and just north of town the Narta lagoon has salt pans, wading birds and a small monastery on an islet at Zvërnec.

Grilled fish with olive oil and lemon is the staple of seafront tables, alongside mussels, fried squid and byrek, the flaky filled pastry eaten all over Albania, often for the start of the day. Raki and strong coffee finish a meal. Beaches are busiest in July and August, while May, June and September are warm and calmer.