Experience the best of Luquillo

Luquillo sits on Puerto Rico's north-east coast, where the green slopes of the Luquillo Mountains meet the Atlantic. La Monserrate beach, a long crescent of sand with palms and calm shallow water, is a favourite with families. Behind the town the mountains rise into El Yunque National Forest, the only tropical rainforest in the United States national forest system, with waterfalls, hiking trails and the tiny coquí tree frogs that sing after dark.

Along the main road, a row of open-air food stalls known as Los Kioskos sells fried snacks and cold drinks, with music playing late. To the east, near Fajardo, the cays and reefs of the north-east coast are popular for snorkelling, and the Laguna Grande bioluminescent bay glows when its water is stirred. San Juan, the capital, lies to the west.

Alcapurrias, fritters of plantain and taro filled with meat, bacalaítos, salt-cod fritters, grilled pinchos, empanadillas and fresh coconut water are the staples at the kiosks, along with rum drinks. Warm weather lasts all year, rain showers sweep in regularly off the mountains, and hurricane season runs from June to November.