Experience the best of Banja Luka

Banja Luka is the largest city in the north-west of Bosnia and Herzegovina, set on the Vrbas where the river leaves the hills and crosses a wide valley. Its centre is a place of parks, plane trees and cafés, with walks along the river. The Kastel, a fortress with Roman origins and Ottoman rebuilding, stands on the bank near the centre, and the tall bell tower of Christ the Saviour Cathedral rises over the town.

Upstream, the Vrbas cuts a canyon between steep walls, a favourite stretch for rafting and kayaking, and forested hills around the city have walking trails. Further up the valley lies Jajce, a hill town with a waterfall in the middle of it, and the lakes and old watermills of the Pliva river are close to Jajce.

Ćevapi, small grilled minced-meat fingers served in flatbread with chopped onion, are the usual quick meal, and strong Bosnian coffee arrives in a small copper pot. The climate is continental, with warm summers and cold, sometimes snowy winters.