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Budapest, the capital, joins hilly Buda and flat Pest across the Danube, with Buda Castle, Fishermen's Bastion, the Parliament on the riverbank and St Stephen's Basilica. Its thermal baths, such as Széchenyi and Rudas, its ruin bars and the Great Market Hall make it a city for late nights and long, unhurried soaks.

North of Budapest, the Danube Bend winds past the hilltop citadel of Visegrád, the basilica at Esztergom and the artists' town of Szentendre. Lake Balaton, the largest lake in Central Europe, is ringed by resorts and vineyards, Eger is known for its castle and red wine, and Tokaj for its golden dessert wines. The Great Plain is home to traditional horsemen and ranches.

Paprika runs through goulash and chicken paprikash, while lángos and chimney cake are favourite street snacks, with wines from Tokaj, Eger and Villány. Summer is the season for Lake Balaton, whose shallow water warms quickly, and winter is cold, brightened by steaming baths and Christmas markets.