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Amman, the capital, spreads across its hills with a citadel, a Roman theatre and busy souks, and is the base for the remarkably preserved Roman city of Jerash to the north. The Dead Sea, the lowest point on land, is a short drive west, where the salty water lets you float with ease.

Petra, carved into rose-coloured cliffs by the Nabataeans, is reached through the narrow Siq gorge, which opens dramatically onto the Treasury, with the Monastery high above. Wadi Rum's red sands and sandstone mountains are best explored by jeep with a night in a desert camp, and Aqaba offers coral reefs on the Red Sea. Mount Nebo, the mosaic map of Madaba and the baptism site on the Jordan River draw pilgrims.

Mansaf, lamb cooked in a yoghurt sauce and served over rice, is the dish of celebrations, alongside falafel, hummus and knafeh, with sweet tea and cardamom coffee. Spring wildflowers and mild autumn days make the best seasons, while summer is hot, especially in the desert, and winter is cool with occasional rain in the hills.