Experience the best of Skardu

Skardu spreads across a broad valley on the Indus River, ringed by bare brown mountains and patches of sand dunes. It is the main town of Baltistan, in Gilgit-Baltistan, and the jumping-off point for expeditions to K2 and the Baltoro Glacier, which begin with a long jeep drive to the village of Askole. The old fort of Kharpocho watches over the town from a rock above the river.

Satpara Lake, close to town, has mountain views, and Shigar, a village in the next valley, has a carefully restored old fort. The high Deosai plateau, a national park of wide, flower-covered plains at over four thousand metres, lies to the south and is snowbound for much of the year. Brown bears live there.

Baltistan's food is simple and filling, with steamed dumplings called mamtu, thick soups, apricots and butter tea. Bazaar stalls sell dried fruit and nuts to take on the trail. Winters are long and cold, and the best weather arrives between May and September, when the roads over the high passes are open.