Te doen in Laos

Luang Prabang, set where the Nam Khan meets the Mekong, is a UNESCO-listed town of gilded temples such as Wat Xieng Thong, French-era houses and monks collecting alms at dawn. Vientiane, the capital, is a quiet city on the Mekong's banks, with the golden That Luang stupa and the Patuxai victory gate.

Vang Vieng sits among limestone cliffs and caves beside the Nam Song river, and Kuang Si Falls, near Luang Prabang, tumble in turquoise tiers. Phonsavan, on the Xieng Khouang plateau, is the base for the Plain of Jars, fields of ancient stone jars scattered across the grassland. In the south, Pakse leads to the Bolaven Plateau's coffee and waterfalls, the Khmer temple of Wat Phou and the Four Thousand Islands.

Sticky rice eaten with the fingers is the staple, with laap, a minced-meat salad bright with lime and herbs, grilled river fish and green papaya salad. Baguettes remain from the French era and go with strong, sweet coffee. The cool dry months from November to February are pleasantest, while April brings Lao New Year, with water thrown in the streets.