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Auckland, the largest city, spreads between two harbours with volcanic cones, island ferries and a busy waterfront, and is where most visitors arrive. From there, the Bay of Islands, the geothermal wonders and Māori cultural experiences of Rotorua, the Waitomo glowworm caves and the film-set village of Hobbiton are all within reach.

The South Island is wilder still. Queenstown is the adventure capital beside Lake Wakatipu, Milford Sound's fiord walls plunge into dark water, and the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers descend toward the rainforest. Aoraki/Mount Cook, the highest peak, rises above turquoise lakes, and Marlborough and Central Otago produce celebrated wines. Wellington, the capital, has the national museum, Te Papa, and a café scene that takes its coffee seriously.

Lamb, seafood such as green-lipped mussels and pavlova star at the table, with excellent wine and coffee. Summer, from December to February, is the season for long hikes and beach days, autumn turns the poplars of Central Otago gold, and winter means skiing in the Southern Alps.