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St John is the quietest of the three, with most of its land protected as Virgin Islands National Park. Cruz Bay is its small harbour town, with ferries, shops and restaurants, and trails lead from it to quiet beaches such as Trunk Bay, where an underwater snorkelling trail runs along the reef.

St Croix, the largest island, is flatter and drier, with Danish-built Christiansted, yellow Fort Christiansvaern and the ruins of sugar estates. Frederiksted, on the west coast, has a pier for cruise ships, Fort Frederik and Victorian-style wooden buildings with fretwork, and sunsets over the water. Buck Island Reef National Monument lies off the north-east coast.

Callaloo soup, fungi and fish, johnnycakes and pates, fried turnovers, show the local mix of African, Caribbean and Danish traditions. Carnival on St Thomas in late April and the Crucian Christmas Festival on St Croix are the big celebrations. December to April is the dry season.