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Uganda is a green East African country of mountain gorillas, the source of the Nile, great lakes and savanna, nicknamed the Pearl of Africa.

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Kampala, the capital, is spread over hills, with the Kasubi Tombs of the Buganda kings, a UNESCO site, and the crowded Owino market. Jinja, east of Kampala on Lake Victoria, is where the White Nile leaves the lake, a town of old Indian-quarter shops, river rapids and rafting.

In the south-west, Kabale sits among terraced hills near Lake Bunyonyi and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, where mountain gorillas live. In the north-west, Masindi leads to Murchison Falls, where the Nile squeezes through a narrow gap, and to the Budongo Forest with its chimpanzees. Gulu, in the north, is the main town of the Acholi region.

Matoke, steamed green bananas, with groundnut sauce, is the staple, and the rolex, an omelette rolled in chapati, is the street snack. Fresh pineapple and jackfruit are sold at roadsides. There are two dry seasons, from December to February and June to August, and two rainy ones in between.

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