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Samoa has two main islands, Upolu and Savai'i. Apia, the capital on Upolu's north coast, is a small harbour town with a clock tower and a market. Above it, on top of Mount Vaea, lies the grave of Robert Louis Stevenson, who spent his last years at Vailima, now a museum.

Upolu's south coast has the To Sua Ocean Trench, a deep swimming hole in the lava reached by ladder, and at the south-eastern tip the Lalomanu beaches have open-sided fale huts. Piula Cave Pool and Togitogiga Falls offer freshwater swimming. Savai'i, the larger island, is wilder, with blowholes and lava fields.

Palusami, taro leaves baked in coconut cream, and oka, raw fish in coconut milk with lime, are served at feasts cooked in an earth oven. Life follows fa'a Samoa, the Samoan way, shaped by village chiefs, and Sunday is given to church. Fire-knife dancing and tattooing are part of Samoan culture. May to October is cooler and drier, and the wet season runs from November to April.