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Guatemala is the heart of the Maya world, a land of volcanoes, colonial Antigua, Lake Atitlán and the jungle temples of Tikal.

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Guatemala City, the capital, is a large, busy valley city whose historic centre has the National Palace and cathedral and whose museums in the southern districts hold Maya art and textiles. Antigua Guatemala, a short drive away, is a UNESCO-listed colonial town of cobbled streets and ruined churches set beneath three volcanoes: Agua, Fuego and Acatenango.

In the north, Flores sits on an island in Lake Petén Itzá and is the base for Tikal, a Maya city whose temple pyramids rise above the rainforest canopy. In the highlands, Lake Atitlán, reached from Panajachel, is ringed by volcanoes and villages such as San Pedro La Laguna, and Quetzaltenango has hot springs and Maya markets nearby. Cobán, in the green hills of Alta Verapaz, leads on to the turquoise pools of Semuc Champey, and Puerto Quetzal is a Pacific port.

Pepián, a rich meat stew thickened with roasted seeds and chillies, is among the best-known dishes, and tamales, black beans and fresh tortillas fill the table. Guatemalan coffee and chocolate are sold in every market. Holy Week brings sawdust carpets and processions to Antigua, and the rains hold off between November and April.

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